While most of us think of mosquitoes as an annoyance because of their blood-sucking bite, we often times forget the greatest concern is their ability to transmit disease.

While there are several pesticide options available for controlling mosquitoes, the best solution is to eliminate the population by keeping them from reproducing. Mosquito eggs require moisture in order to hatch, and once they do most species of mosquitoes will only fly up to a few miles from where they hatch. If standing water is avoided or eliminated in the surrounding area there will be few mosquitoes to even be concerned with.

All sources of standing water must be located and eliminated or refreshed weekly. That includes the obvious ones like old tires, kids’ toys, and flower pots as well as the less obvious sites like clogged house spouting or the hollow of a tree stump. Kids’ wading pools and bird baths should be replaced with fresh water weekly. Rain barrels should remain covered at all times. Even an over-irrigated lawn can provide enough standing water to allow mosquito eggs to mature and hatch.

The lifecycle ranges from 10 days to 10 months.  While given the right moisture conditions mosquito eggs can hatch only 2 to 3 days after being laid, they can also remain dormant for months and then after being flooded hatch just a few days later. Once hatched the larvae feed on small bits of organic matter in the water and mature into adults 7 to 10 days later. The adults can live for three weeks, laying anywhere from 1 to 400 eggs at a time.

Residual sprays can be effective for homeowners to accomplish short-term relief and control of adult mosquitoes. These sprays can be applied as barrier treatments to tall grasses, weeds, shrubs, fences, playgrounds, residences, or even subdivisions to help reduce the adult populations. These can remain active for several days to several weeks, but factors such as rain, high temperatures or exposure to strong sunlight may reduce their length or activity. Pesticides such as Sevin, naled, pyrethrins and malathion are labeled to be used in these situations.

Inside, most any pesticide sold for the control of flying insects indoors can be effective. These products commonly include pyrethrins or synthetic pyrethroids. Repellents such as DEET can protect people from mosquito bites for one to five hours depending on a variety of factors including perspiration and the number of mosquitoes in the area.

Repelling devices, plants, traps or zappers are seldom effective.  Research suggests that bug zappers, electronic or ultrasonic repellent devices and scented or repellent plants are not effective in significantly reducing mosquito populations.  Keep in mind, a varied approach is required for effective mosquito control!

Source:  Stan Smith- OSU Extension-Fairfield County 

Lawn care tips for summer

A well-cared-for lawn enhances the beauty of your home but, unfortunately, also is attractive to grubs. Grubs in our area are usually the larvae of the Japanese beetle, which have a one-year life cycle. Japanese beetle eggs, laid in late July and early August, develop into larvae that feed on grass roots until late October or early November when they hibernate. When the soil warms in the spring, they resume feeding. The grubs’ feeding kills off patches of grass leaving brown spots in the lawn. Animals and birds trying to feed on the grubs may cause additional lawn damage. Eventually, damage from the grubs can kill the lawn. August is the best time to scout for grubs. To be sure you have grubs rather than a weather-related problem, pull back an area of the dead turf. If you see more than 12 grubs in a square foot, it is time to treat. Do not wait until spring when they only feed for a short period of time...get them now while they are actively feeding from mid-August until mid-October. Biological controls of these pests are available although limited and costly. The best plan of attack is to use a treatment specific to grubs. These should be applied only to the affected area, not the entire lawn.

Please note: University of Illinois Extension’s July Home, Yard & Garden Pest Newsletter provides excellent information on scouting and treatment options and further information is available in their “Lawntalk” newsletter.  And one final reminder: carefully read and follow the label on any product you use!

Lawn mowing is more time consuming than any other lawn-care practice. Regular mowing with a sharp mower blade at the proper height will help keep grass growing vigorously and maintain adequate density. Proper mowing practices contribute to a healthy lawn and minimal weeds, and, if you leave grass clippings on your lawn, contribute  

For a typical residential lawn, maintain a height of 3 inches or higher. Taller grass shades out weed seeds and keeps soil cooler. Taller grass means longer roots and greater ability to withstand drought and reach nutrients. Remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf tissue when you mow.

Mowing too short or scalping results in stress to the grass plant. Weak grass plants will take longer to recover. To maintain a 3-inch lawn, mow before the grass reaches 4.5 inches tall.  Mowing too short can allow weed seeds to get more sun and increase the chance of germination.

Finally, leave your clippings on the lawn.  Decomposed clippings add the equivalent of one fertilizer application to your lawn each year. Decomposed clippings improve soil quality and minimize runoff.

The OSU Extension Office Update is compiled by Connie Smith, program assistant and master gardener coordinator with the Ohio State University Extension Office in Fairfield County.